Good Spyder, Bad Spider

Normally spiders are scary, at least to me they are. And especially ones like this.

Chances are you don't have one of those in your backyard - and I'm pretty sure if you do, you won't be calling me for bifenthrin, you will be looking for this guy  (Great movie!)

But let's talk about a spider, spyder rather, that you won't make you want to call Burt Gummer.

Spyder LS Tall Fescue

Spyder LS is a release from the Lateral Spread technology program, a program that strives to develop fescues that use natural tillering (rhizome formation) and exhibit greater potential for tighter density and self-recuperation from traffic, wear or injury.

It is dark green in color, vigorous and aggressive with disease resistance to Brown Patch. It is quicker to fill-in with top rated drought tolerance - reducing irrigation costs and conserving water resources.

For the full tech sheet ... click here

Ready to Seed?

If you haven't done so already, now is definitely the time for your fall seeding.

Whether you're just simply overseeding to keep your lawn thick and healthy, or you need to seed some areas that were damaged during the summer heat, now is the time.

Here are some ways to help make sure your seed gives you the results you're looking for this fall:

     1) Make sure you incorportate your seed at least 1/4" into your soil. You can achieve this by using a slit-seeder or slicer. You can also aerate before seeding.

     2) Keep the seed moist. Be careful not to over or underwater. The key is successful germination is to apply frequent and light watering to keep the seed moist and encourage quick germination.

     3) Apply a "starter" fertilizer to encourage root development in the newly germinated seed. An example of a starter fertilizer is 18-24-12, one that is higher in phosphorus and preferably contains at least 40% slow release Nitrogen, to provide consistent feeding for the establishing grass.

     4) Properly time your first mowing on the newly established grass. Wait until your new grass is about 2" tall and then begin mowing. Mowing will start to encourage the grass to thicken, giving you the dense turf you're looking for.

     5) Keep the weeds out. Once you have begun mowing your newly established grass, be sure to control any broadleaf or grassy weeds that may emerge to ensure your grass to remain dense heading into the late fall / winter. This will help your lawn once Spring arrives to ward off spring-time weeds.

Weeds Not Going Away?

In preparation for fall seeding, have you sprayed your lawn for weeds, but they're still there?

The problem could be with the type of herbicide you are using. If you are using a broadleaf herbicide such as Triplet or 4 Speed XT and your weeds are still there, chances are broadleaves are not your target.

Especially with the weather in the Mid-Atlantic this year, tougher weeds such as crabgrass, goosegrass and nutsedge are major problems in lawns.

These weeds require different herbicides to control them.

If you need to control crabgrass or goosegrass in your lawn, you'll need a herbicide labelled for grassy weeds - such as Quinclorac 75 DF.

For nutsedge control - you would need a herbicide specifically designed to eradicate nutsedge - such as Pro Sedge.

Knowing the types of weeds you are trying to control in your lawn is important and can save you time and money when it comes to controlling them.

Going Green at Work

Being energy and resource efficient and conscious of improving the health and well-being of your work environment will also reduce the costs of running a business. It's always a great time to "Go Green" at work and here are some simple ways to do that:

     1. Feel empowered.
                   You don't need to be management to institute change; your role as someone who cares about improving the energy efficiency and healthiness of your workplace is just as vital as those able to make the "big decisions".

      2. Reduce Printer Use
                    Don't print unless it's necessary. Take advantage of your computer and hardware and maintain your files on a flashdrive.

      3. Travel Green
                    Commute with coworkers, take the subway or metro, ride your bike if you live close enough. These are all ways you can be Green while getting to work.

      4. Green your desk, cubicle or office
                    Use plants in your office or at your desk - they can be used to show your company is green friendly, and they can also maintain a healthy air flow, especially in an office setting

      5. Recycle
                    Whether it's cardboard, glass, aluminum or plastic - there is a way to properly recycle it.

      6. Spread the Word
                     Spreading the word and getting others to follow your lead is possibly the greatest way to Go Green.
                     Create a Green Team at work. This is a group of people that will set annual "Going Green Goals" for your company

Do You Smell That? - yup Stinkbugs!

It's already August 10th and if you're like me, you're fixated on knowing that football season and cooler weather is just around the corner.

But right now is also the time to be proactive and be thinking about stinkbugs. That's right, those nasty, pesky, smelly stinkbugs. In a few weeks, they are most likely going to be seen in swarms - looking to find warm shelter in your houses and garages for the winter.

I wanted to share a couple links that provide some good overall information on the stinkbugs as well as some control options. Just like most everything else in life, prevention is the key to success with the stinkbugs.

http://washington.umd.edu/files/How%20to%20Manage%20Stink%20Bugs.pdf

http://www.asktheexterminator.com/Household_Pests/How_to_Get_Rid_of_Stink_Bugs.shtml

Now is the time to be preparing your windows, doors and house perimeter to keep these pests out in the cold!

If you'd like to read something pretty interesting, click here to find out what entomologists are doing at WVU about the stinkbug epidemic.

Course Marking Mistakes

Through both experience as a golf course superintendent and player of the game, I have seen penty of mistakes when it comes to course markings.

In this post, I want to share FIVE of the most common mistakes I have seen made while marking a course so that these mistakes aren't made or repeated at your facility.

Why is proper course marking so important - because the Rules of Golf depend on it.

The most common types of course markings include:

                         - Lateral Water Hazard (Red)
                         - Water Hazard (Yellow)
                         - Ground Under Repair (White)

Top 5 Common Mistakes:

1) The first and probably most common mistake is incomplete marking - not enough stakes and/or missing painted lines.

2) Inability to see between stakes or painted lines due to tall grass, brush or tree growth.

3) Excessive use of red or lateral water hazard marking when some areas should be yellow or water hazard.

4) Incorrect marking of rough and wooded areas as lateral water hazards

5) Excessive ground under repair marking. Be careful to avoid marking areas that are well out into the rough - also, avoid marking casual water as ground under repair.
　
Keeping your course properly marked may seem like such a small thing to worry about - but doing so will save you plenty of possible headaches later.

Generic vs. Name Brand

Name Brand versus Generic. It’s a decision people face every day – at the supermarket, at the pharmacy and at the hardware store. For some golf course superintendents and lawn care professionals, the choice of which chemical to use is simple. For others, the issue is more complicated.

For some, making the decision between a Generic or Name Brand chemical simply comes down to cost. Some Generic or "post-patent" products can cost 50% less than their Name Brand counterparts. And now, more than ever, the ability to save money and make your budget go further is not only important, but a MUST.

Some professionals aren't convinced to use Generics, even despite the potential cost savings. Just as there will always be people who prefer the name Craftsman or Dewalt when it comes to tools, there will always be lawn care professionals who prefer the name Banner Maxx over Propiconazole, etc.

For those of you who may be on the fence when it comes to choosing a Name Brand or Generic product, my advice is to try a generic equivalent to a Name Brand product you use and see how it works for you. Only in a self conducted experiment will you be able to truly know how the Generic product does in terms of application rate, length and quality of control, cost, etc.

For more information and reviews on Generic vs Name Brand - check out this article by Golf Course Industry Magazine.

 

Light at the end of the Tunnel

Whether you're a landscaper, golf course superintendent or a homeowner that enjoys taking care of his lawn - I bet you're ALL tired of this heat.

It's easy to settle into a mental rut during the dog days of summer, unconvinced that the heat and humidity will ever end. Well keep your chin up, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel - and no it's not another train this time.

In just 30 days it will be Labor Day weekend. Not only a great weekend to relax and share some good times with friends and family - but (depending on your location) it also means "seeding season".

Oh the thoughts that come to mind when thinking of seeding - lower humidity, cooler nights, shorter days, football ... I could go on and on.

So instead of consuming our thoughts with how much Goldbond you need to take to work tomorrow - let's start thinking about seed and getting prepared for the fall.

It's going to be here before you know it!

Attention Maryland Professionals!

For Landscapers, Golf Course Superintendents and all Lawn Care Professionals, are you aware of Maryland Senate Bill 487 which passed earlier this year?

This Bill is going to effect how and when you fertilize in addition to several other provisions.

If you would like to discuss the bill in more detail, check us out here on Facebook.

Japanese Stilt Grass

One thing I have learned this year: Japanese Stilt Grass is a MAJOR problem for landscapers and homeowners in this Maryland/DC area.

So what is Japanese Stilt Grass and did it come from Japan?

YES - Stilt grass originates from Japan. It was used as a packing material for porcelain in the 1900's and it is believed that seeds in the packing material were unintentionally introduced to North America.

Why is it a problem here?

Japanese stilt grass spreads rapidly, especially in areas that have been disturbed. Unlike most grasses, it can grow prolifically in the shade and densely cover wooded floors, thereby preventing the growth of other plants including young trees and shrubs. To make matters even worse, our animals don't seem to have a taste for it.

Control Options:

Where and when possible, manual removal should be the primary method of control. For larger infestations, chemical control may be possible.

You can use a non-selective herbicide such as Razor Pro (glyphosate) or if you would like to selectively eradicate the stilt grass - you can use Acclaim Extra (fenoxaprop) - Acclaim will also help you knock out some of the crabgrass in your lawn as well.

I know, I know - your lawn doesn't have crabgrass (wink, wink)

Consult labels for specific use rates and controls.

Aerating Your Lawn

Aerating, Aerifying, Who Gives a $%*#? (Happy Gilmore reference)

No matter how you say it, aerating your lawn is perhaps the most important cultural practice you NEED to perform.

Why Do I Need to Aerate?

Naturally, through heavy use from play, sports, pets, vehicle traffic, parking, etc, soil compaction occurs. Compacted soils greatly reduce the pore space within the soil that would normally hold air. Roots require oxygen to grow and absorb nutrients and water.

Compaction has a negative impact on nutrient uptake and water infiltration, in addition to being a physical barrier to root growth. These negative effects can be seen during periods of stress such as heat and drought. The results are poor top growth and lawn deterioration.

Performing regular aeration will provide your lawn with many benefits:   

     - Increase water, nutrient and oxygen movement in the soil
     - Improve rooting
     - Enhance infiltration of rainfall and/or irrigation
     - Help prevent fertilizer/pesticide run-off from overly compacted areas
     - Increase the activity of soil microorganisms that decompose thatch
     - Improve drought tolerance
     - Improve heat tolerance
     - Release carbon dioxide
     - Encourage new, deeper root growth

　
The typical times to aerate your lawn are Spring and Fall when the grass is actively growing. However, if your lawn is struggling to survive the summer heat, soil compaction may be one of the reasons, resulting in the roots to suffocate with limited air movement as well as not allowing must needed water and nutrients to infiltrate the soil and reach the roots.

Aerating your lawn will provide an immediate positive impact. My advise would be to perform the aeration towards the evening hours so as to avoid exposing your lawn to damage during the hottest part of the day.

Controlling Nutsedge

Nutsedge (also known as nutgrass and sometimes swampgrass) is a perennial grass that drives homeowners, landscapers and turf professionals NUTS - (yea, that just happened)

Nutsedge can be found as either purple or yellow and is defined as a perennial because it repeats its life cycle every year. Reproduction occurs primarily by small underground tubers called nutlets (as seen in the 2nd picture). Nutsedge can also spread by rhizomes.

When identifying this grass in your lawn - you will notice the leaves are light green to yellowish in color and are very slick / waxy to the touch.

Control Options:

Late spring/early summer is the ideal time to control yellow nutsedge. At this time yellow nutsedge is young, actively growing, and most susceptible to herbicide controls.

As summer arrives, the nutsedge becomes more mature and begins to form seedheads. Eradication can still be reached, but is more difficult than during the Spring.

With small populations of nutsedge, manual removal from your lawn can be the best method of control (just be sure to remove the nutlet as well). For large infestations - you can use a herbicide containing the active ingredient Halosulfuron.

We carry Halosulfuron in the trade name Pro Sedge. Use rate is .9 grams (.03 oz) per 1,000 sq ft.

What's My Spreader Setting?

Calibrating Your Rotary Spreader

It's a question asked perhaps more than "what's for dinner?" - - - "What's my spreader setting?"

While there are spreader setting charts out there that list common settings across a wide variety of different spreaders (Lesco, Scotts, Earthway, etc etc), you should always CALIBRATE your spreader to accurately calculate the desired rate for the desired product.

"How do I know how much fertilizer to use?" - Here is an example to help you figure that out.

You have a 10,000 sq ft lawn & you're going to fertilize using our 18-0-3.

1) Choose a desired rate of Nitrogren to be applied per 1,000 sq ft

                          (for this example, I will use .5 lb N per 1,000 sq ft)

2) Divide your desired rate by the percentage of Nitrogen in the bag - this will tell you how many lbs of fertilizer you will need to apply per 1,000 sq ft to achieve your desired rate.

                                  (.5 lb N / .18 N) = 2.78 lbs per 1,000 sq ft.

3) Your lawn is 10,000 sq ft so if you multiply that number (2.78) by 10 - this will tell you how many lbs of fertilizer you will need for the job.


                                            (2.78 x 10) = 27.8 lbs of 18-0-3

Now, you need to calibrate your spreader to apply 2.78 lbs of 18-0-3 per 1,000 sq ft

Click here for step by step calibration instructions

Materials you will need:
- bucket or pail
- scale
- your spreader (don't laugh - you really need it)
- paint can
- marking flags (or anything to help you mark a point of reference)
- measuring tape or wheel
　

Water Wise

Proper Summertime Water Management

Cool season turf requires about 1" of water/irrigation weekly to maintain quality aesthetics and active growth. (If you are irrigating the lawn yourself, I recommend splitting your weekly watering into two 1/2" irrigation cycles).

Before the heat of summer arrives each season - you should decide on one of the following watering practices; to either water consistently all season long, or to allow your lawn to go dormant as conditions get hot and dry.

It is IMPORTANT to choose one of those practices and stick to it. An inconsistent watering practice will only result in damage to your lawn.

The best time to water is between midnight and sunrise. This window of time yields the best opportunity to irrigate down to the root depth and allow the surface to dry out before the heat and humidity arrive after sunrise.

It is best to avoid watering your lawn during the heat of the day, but if you notice your lawn is starting to wilt ("footprint"- see picture below) in certain areas, allowing your irrigation to run for a few minutes to cool the surface is a good idea - to prevent damage to your lawn and/or turf loss.

Ants, Ticks, Spiders ... Oh My!!!

Wouldn't that have made a better line in "The Wizard of Oz"? I think so.

And whether you're a landscape company or homeowner, chances are that ants, ticks and spiders mean more to you than Lions, Tigers and Bears. So whether you need to control some pesky crawlers in your back yard or keep those ants out of your kitchen - we have what you need.

Menace (Bifenthrin)  is a concentrated liquid formulation that controls many surface crawling/flying insects, such as ants, ticks, mites, millipedes, spiders, bees and more.

You can use Menace to spray in your lawn, around your house, anywhere you are looking to control those insects. Use rate is .125 oz - 1.0 oz per 1000 sq ft.

　

Tengard (Permethrin)  is a concentrated liquid formulation that controls most of the same insects as Bifenthrin. You can also use Tengard to control termites, mice and other unwelcomed guests around your home. Use rate is 1 2/3 oz - 6 2/3 oz per gallon of water.

Got Crabgrass?

Controlling Crabgrass In Your Lawn

Maybe you applied a Pre-emergent in the Spring, maybe you didn't. Maybe you could have used another application, maybe it's the weather's fault. No matter who is to blame, you now have crabgrass in your lawn and you want to control it.

You have basically two options, to control the crabgrass selectively or non-selectively. Controlling the crabgrass with a selective herbicide will allow you to eradicate only the crabgrass from your lawn, without injuring your desired turf. A non-selective control will eradicate the crabgrass as well as your desired turf.

Let's talk selective controls. The following is a list of Selective Herbicides we carry that will control crabgrass:

             - Quinclorac 75DF (Equivalent to Drive 75DF): This is a Dry Flowable powder that you can mix with water to create a spray solution. Use rate is .367 oz per 1000 sq ft.

             - Acclaim Extra: This is a concentrated liquid formulation (shown here in a pint container). Use rate is .08 oz - .90 oz per 1000 sq ft.

              - Quincept: This is a concentrated liquid formulation, a combination of 2,4-D, Dicamba & Quinclorac. This combination will allow you to control crabgrass as well as broadleaf weeds such as dandelion, clover, etc. Use rate is 2.6 oz - 2.9 oz per 1000 sq ft.